A complete buyer's and build guide for a Raspberry Pi-powered Tidbyt clone running the community Tronbyt software stack — fully local, no cloud subscription, endlessly hackable.
Everything you need, buyable from Adafruit and Amazon. Core build (the required items): ~$105 + tax/shipping. Add an SD card & cord for ~$120–140 all-in. Optional items are dimmed.
Both are 64×32 HUB75 panels and render identically in software. The only real differences are physical size, viewing distance, and how easily existing 3D-printed cases will fit.
There's no Makerworld case sized exactly for the 3mm Pi+Bonnet stack with a Tidbyt-style kickstand — so the honest move is: print one of these, and scale or remix as needed. Order parts first, dry-fit with a tape measure, then commit to a print.
Two pieces of software, both living on the same Pi: the Tronbyt Server (a Dockerized Go web app that hosts apps and renders frames) and tronberry (a tiny daemon that pulls those frames and lights up the panel). Click any step to expand it.
Tronbyt Server renders each app to a 64×32 WebP and serves it at http://<pi>:8000/<device-id>/next → tronberry polls that endpoint, reads the Tronbyt-Dwell-Secs & Tronbyt-Brightness headers, and draws to the HUB75 panel via the hzeller rpi-rgb-led-matrix library.Tronbyt runs the Tidbyt community apps (a hard fork), written in Starlark and rendered to 64×32 WebP by the built-in Pixlet engine. Adding one takes seconds.
Good starters to add first:
America/New_York); optionally pick a color scheme and 12/24-hour./next, your new app joins the rotation on the panel.If you added the inline power switch, here's the one thing to know: the LED panel and the Pi's processor don't care about abrupt power loss — but the SD card does. Cutting power at the exact moment Linux is mid-write can corrupt a file or the filesystem. This build is low-risk because the card sits mostly idle once tronberry is running (frames are served from memory, not disk), so flipping the switch is usually fine — but over months of daily cycles the odds of catching a bad moment slowly add up.
Pick your spot on the spectrum:
sudo shutdown -h now, wait ~10 s until the Pi's green activity LED stops blinking, then flip the switch. Flipping it back on boots the Pi (there's no separate power button). Safe every time, but it means reaching for a terminal.dd). Then a corrupted card is a 10-minute re-flash, not a rebuild. For true yank-proofing once your setup is final, enable the overlay filesystem (sudo raspi-config → Performance → Overlay File System) so the OS runs from RAM and never writes to the card in normal use — just remember to toggle it off when you want config changes to persist.The honest fine print — read these before you buy or upgrade. Severity is color-coded: ●blocker ●worth knowing ● minor.